Binding Archives » Needle's Eye Designs

Following up to my previous post on Around the World Potholder (Pattern #1), this is how to bind that quilt. Binding is essentially finished your artwork – framing it to make it a completed picture. There are many, many ways to finish a quilt. Some are very artsy and others are just quick and efficient. Today, we will just dive into the traditional double fold binding method. Most quilts are finished this way and it is what I would recommend – unless you are doing something artsy. I go over why is this post: Ever struggle with how to bind a quilt?

From a design perspective, I do use the binding as the final framework for a quilt. So, it is best to pick a color that will serve this function well.

Making the Binding

You will need to begin by measuring your quilt. Take the average of 3 measurements for length and width of your quilt.

(Length 1 + Length 2 + Length 3) / 3 = Length

(Width 1 + Width 2 + Width 3) / 3 = Width

Then you will calculate the length of the binding you will need:

(Length x 2) + (Width x 2) + 12 = Binding Length

For smaller quilts like potholders, I have found that replacing the 12 with a 6 works well. Now, you will need to calculate the number of strips you will need:

Binding Length / Width of your Fabric = Number of Strips to Cut

If you are using batiks, the width of your fabric will be 42. For print fabric the width is 40.

Cut your strips with a 2.25 inch width.

Place the strips and to end and sew at a 45 degree angle like depicted in the image below. Repeat this step until all the strips are sewn together.

Trim down seams to have a quarter inch seam allowance.

Iron each of the seams to set and iron the seams to one side or another. Fold the whole strip in half lengthwise and iron.

Fold under one end of your binding by quarter inch and iron it.

Sewing the binding onto your quilt

Align raw edge of your binding to the raw edge of your quilt. Begin in the middle of one of the edge – allowing plenty of space to finish the 2 ends of the binding.

Sew the binding using a scant quarter inch seam allowance (just a hair shy of exactly quarter inch.) When you are a quarter inch away from the edge, fix your seam using a reverse stitch or a fix stitch.

To do the corners you will need to fold 90 degrees from your seam as depicted below.

Next, while maintaining that 45 degree angle fold over again to align the raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the quilt as depicted below. I like to pin to make sure I maintain the 2 folds.

Begin sewing again a quarter inch from the edge.

Repeat these steps until you have sewn around all the corners.

To finish the binding, align the bottom fold of the end where you began to sew to the edge of your quilt. Like below.

Tuck in the other end of the binding inside the fold of the beginning.

Gently tug on the bottom portion of the binding to ensure there are no “tucks” in it. You can use pins as needed to hold the fabric in place as you complete sewing along this last edge.

The final step is to fold over the edge of the binding to the back of the quilt and hand sew it down using a whip stitch. Every 6th stitch should be repeated in the same spot for durability.

Here are pictures of the back and the front of an over-sized potholder made using the Around the World Potholder (Pattern #1).

If there’s any questions please feel free to email me. 🙂 Binding a quilt for the first time is a little tricky, but once you have done it, it’s easy.

Happy Quilting!

I want to take some time to talk about binding. There are several different ways to bind a quilt. Some methods are designed to save time, others not so much. The most popular is the double fold binding method. It’s the way I was taught and has become my method of choice for most of the quilts I’ve made.

The only exceptions are my art quilts and the method used depends on the purpose of the quilt. For art quilts/wall hangings, be creative. That’s my best advice. Art is meant to be, well, artistic. Think about the overall impact you want the quilt to have for the viewer and then think how to “frame” it. The binding is the final “frame” for any quilt – it is your final chance to stop someone’s eye from leaving your quilt. Look at my one of my art quilts below. Notice how the borders and the binding work together. The black border on one side and the black binding on the other side stops your eye; thus, framing the piece.

For utility quilts, I *highly* recommend the double fold method because it is a method designed for durability. By utility quilts I mean quilts used as bedding, baby quilts, lap quilts, or any other type of quilt that you make with the knowledge it will be used. The reason why is best illustrated by the below picture.

This is one of the first quilts I made (approximately 10+ years ago). Sadly, my at the time young puppy got a hold of the quilt and ate a very small hole into the quilt. (I can see a lot of quilters just cringing.) I was upset with her but not for long, because I will have only 10-15 (if I am lucky 15) with my puppy. I will have this quilt for much longer (hole and all) and it will always remind me of my fur baby. I did use this quilt for a time (yes, back on topic!) and, as you can see, the binding wore down. However, the quilt edge is still protected because of that second layer of fabric from the double binding method.

I will provide binding training videos, if people comment a desire for it. There are lots of binding training videos out in cyberspace, as a result, I don’t feel the need to redo what others have already done quite well. However, if my style of writing is something that you find helps you to assimilate data then comment or e-mail me and I’ll see what I can do. 🙂

Until next time and have a fabulous day!

Nelum